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[DakotaZeb]

I have a '06 SEUC with around 11,000 miles on it.  A year ago I had to have the rear head replaced due to a factory defect.  They also replaced the valve seals at that time.  During the summer and fall of '07 my bike started using oil and riders behind me said they could smell it buring oil.  I again took it in and the valve seals were bad in for the front and rear heads.  I changed my oil (Amsoil) again this spring and I already have noticed the bike using a little oil and I think I can smell it when I'm cruising down the road.  The dealer said they put in updated seals last fall. 

Anyone else experience this problem?  Any possibility it could be the Amsoil?  This all started when I started using Amsoil.  I'm about ready to switch to Mobile 1 to see if it makes a difference.

[DCFIREMANN]

It is not the oil. How many miles do you put on you oil before you change it?

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[DakotaZeb]

I only put on about 4,500 to 5,000 miles a year so I've been changing just once a year in the spring.

[Boatman]

I only put on about 4,500 to 5,000 miles a year so I've been changing just once a year in the spring.

Amsoil will easily go that long.

When you change oil and filter, you are putting in 4 quarts?  4 quarts will put me 1/2 way between the add and full marks.  Over full they will burn a little off.

Is your air filter ever oily?

[DakotaZeb]

Oil filter has not been oily in the past but I haven't checked it lately.  I'm just afraid it's the valve seals again.  My warranty ran out in April and I didn't purchase the extended plan.  But I can buy quite a few new valve seals for the cost of the warranty.

I should tell you that I have V&H duals and ovals, a Ness Big Sucker and a PCIII.  I an running an advanced map that I got from someone on this site that has the same exact bike and add-ons that I have.  Bike runs great.  I 've got a set of Monster Ovals coming.

[AXIL]

I hope thy put in the orange valve guide seals not the black ones

[Twolanerider]

If you've already had the same failure twice within warranty and are now having it again shortly after warranty period expiration there might be some provision of warranty handling that continues coverage on the failure.  Dealers also have some (small) latitude on handling things at the fringes too.  It's at least worth the conversation with your shop.

[DakotaZeb]

Update on my oil situation.  It is not the valves this time.  Plugs look good.  But I had oil in my air filter. Quite a bit when I first got to the dealer.  They accused me of over filling it.  I try not to overfill but thought I might have accidentally done so.  When I was at the dealer (that was 1,000 miles ago) the oil was half way up the dipstick.  It continued down to about 1/4 of the way up the dipstick and seems to have stabilized there.  I think that for my bike, Full means something between 1/4 and 1/2 on the dipstick.  But twice now I have checked the air filter and found a small amount of oil in it.  The latest was today after a bout a 170 mile ride.  And when riding and the bike is hot I constantly get the smell of hot oil.  I have a Ness Big Sucker Stage 1 with a K&N filter.

Anyone experience anything like this or have a suggestion.  Could it be an oil pump problem?

[bob2002]

Over the years selling AMSOIL I have had a few people that did burn oil or have a slight leak,I'm not sure its the Amsoil but I would try another brand before I tore into the motor again.

[DakotaZeb]

What's causing the bike to blow oil into the air cleaner?  I think that's the problem.

[hd-dude]

What's causing the bike to blow oil into the air cleaner?  I think that's the problem.

Oil mist in the AC gets there from the head breathers. Overfilling the oil leaves less room in the pan for air. I have found that running the oil at about 1/4" up on the stick from the add is a good level. Most all TC engines have some oil mist into the AC. When it is too much for the intake to draw in and re-burn that is when you see it drip out of the AC. If the oil in the AC is excessive you will want to look into having the oil pump checked. While in there S&S makes a reed valve that sits behind the oil pump that times the breathing of the engine and greatly reduces if not eliminates the blow by in most all cases. I have used this several times with great sucess.

[Hoist!]

Oil mist in the AC gets there from the head breathers. Overfilling the oil leaves less room in the pan for air. I have found that running the oil at about 1/4" up on the stick from the add is a good level. Most all TC engines have some oil mist into the AC. When it is too much for the intake to draw in and re-burn that is when you see it drip out of the AC. If the oil in the AC is excessive you will want to look into having the oil pump checked. While in there S&S makes a reed valve that sits behind the oil pump that times the breathing of the engine and greatly reduces if not eliminates the blow by in most all cases. I have used this several times with great sucess.

The breather system on the new motors sucks!

I've tried everything on mine. TP Provent RB's, Doherty Power Vents, S&S Reed Valve. The breather system isn't sized to accomodate these larger motors. Get a set of Kury Bluegrass Breathers and pipe under the bike. Then FTB (Breathers). No more mess. Keep your oil level right and you won't lose that much. I use 4 qts w/filter change and never have to add any oil between 2500 mi oil changes.

Hoist!

[spydglide]

Hey Hoist, did you ever show us (with a pic) the routing of your breather hose to the ground?  I still can't figure a way that doesn't look fugly.  har!  :drink:spyder

[Twolanerider]

Hey Hoist, did you ever show us (with a pic) the routing of your breather hose to the ground?  I still can't figure a way that doesn't look fugly.  har!  :drink:spyder

Spyder, Howie's bike would have had some extra plumbing/cutting involved because of a breather/air cleaner setup specific to his throttle body.  I doubt anything that gets added to plumb to the ground is completely visually pleasing.  But this is the best I could come up with.

Used the old style crossover tube from one head to the other so could get by with just a single line drop.  Braided line to blend in better and a cap covered hose clamp just because they look better.

[Twolanerider]

Between the cylinders.  Forward and dropping down in front to catch the frame tube to the rear.  Strapped to the frame tube going rearward, over the dog bone and sticking out just far enough in the back that any drops won't fall in front of the tire.  There's also a retaining clamp held down by the crank position sensor bolt that keeps the line secure and out of the up top.