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[brassspike]

Hi everyone, I am going with the 575's on the street glide. I don't have a shop manual yet so I was wondering if anyone would let me know what disassembly was necessary to do the change. Any tricks or pitfalls would be nice!I've changed bars before on my previous bikes but never one with the bat wing. Searched but came up empty. I'd rather not learn the hard way on a 30 grand bike!!!   
Thanks!

[Cvostu]

Let someone who knows what they're doing  handle the job for you. Tihis is a real  miserable job to do even if you have done it before.  On a bike like this, I would let the guy who knows what he is doing have all the fun. I just got my new bars too.   I'm gonna let the pros have all the fun this time..  Pulling the wires is tough.  Not sure about TBW either.  I'm not taking any chances on my new bike.  

[North Georgia Hawg]

Let someone who knows what they're doing  handle the job for you. This is a real sexy miserable job to do even if you have done it before.  On a bike like this, I would let the guy who knows what he is doing have all the fun. I just got my new bars too.   I'm gonna let the pros have all the fun this time..  Pulling the wires is tough.  Not sure about TBW either.  I'm not taking any chances on my new bike.   

I've done it twice - once on Buster, and subsequently on a friend's '10 Classic. I don't think I'll agree to do it again, for any reason... unless I get paid of course! It's NOT fun at all... quite tedious and time consuming. A dealer will charge you 5-6 hours labor... which in most places is more than DOUBLE the cost of the bars themselves... and that's the amount of time it really takes.

If you're going to do it yourself, I have two words of advice... VEGETABLE OIL! It makes pulling the wires through the new bars much easier, and it won't attack the plastic insulation like WD-40 and other products containing kerosene will. At least on our CVO bikes they have included the extended TBW connector (32310-08), which eliminates the troublesome little green plastic connector inside the bars that the standard TBW connector (32305-08A) uses with the jumper harness (70415-08A). Why there are two different TBW assemblies in the first place is a question only the MoCo could answer...

[mrmagloo]

Instead of vegetable oil, use silicone, in the bars and spray the harness cover as well.

[LRebel]

Changed the bars on my 08 SEUC.  Pretty easy & straight forward..... until you get to the wiring. 
Once you get the old bars off, you might consider taking the old & new bars to an auto electric shop and having them remove the wiring from the old bars and installing in the new bars for you.

[ultrafxr]

Glad I let my dealer install my WO575s. I knew it was a bitch of a job that I did not want to tackle. And any fub ups are on their dime.

[Cvostu]

I totally agree with Ultrafxr.

[Trapperdog]

When I replaced the bars on our '07  I unplugged the wires, removed the cables and took the whole works to Jim, hd-dude, and had him internally wire the new bars up for me. Required removal of the outer fairing and I May have had to cut an soldier a couple of external wires, but don't remember though. This may not be plausible with TBW.  I also replaced the dual handle bar mounting clamps with a single one.

[redbeard719]

I've done three Batwing bikes now.  My 10 FLHXSE, my buddy's 12 FLHX, and my other buddy's 06 E-Glide.

None of them were really fun, but I am gratified that I helped two good friends save a bunch of money, and I save a bunch myself too.  In the past year, I've done 8 sets of bars, 7 bikes total, 1 of them twice.

It's a pain, sure, but there are things you learn that make it easier.  I've got a knack for this sort of thing, and the mechanics and assembly make sense to me now after having had them all apart.

Fire away if you have specific questions.  No way I could get everything into a post.  I'd be here for days, and no body would want to read it!

[Midnight Rider]

Basically...Remove outer fairing; remove radio; remove ignition switch; remove lower inner fairing; unplug all connectors; unclamp brake, clutch, and handlebar switches (tie the brake/clutch so they will dangle down but not hit anything and scratch it); remove stock bars; get your azz on a well lighted work table and remove each wire from it's connector, making a GOOD perfect diagram of where each wire goes (color/pin number); pull wiring out; fish wire bundles back into new bars, pulling them more easily by using silicone, or even Windex...vegtable oil would work too; reconnect all wires to proper pin holes in connector, making SURE all pins are well seated; reverse above process.

It is NOT a fun job, but can save you some money if you choose to do it.  If you have a decent workplace, and decent workbench (a kitchen table will do), and lots of patience, you can get it done.  I would not do it for just anyone, but a good friend, free beer, and a steak dinner might persuade me to do so.  Expect to spend a minimum of 6 hours, or more.  If I had an extra $400+ bucks laying around, I'd probably let someone else do it, if I trusted them not to screw something up.

You will love the end result...the 575's are a much nicer looking bar on the bike, not to mention the improved wrist angle and arm/hand position.  Makes all the work worthwhile.

[Cvostu]

My sesg goes in a few weeks.  I have patience to wait for it to get done.   None to be wanting to do it.   

[brassspike]

Thanks! I found a video on changing them on a cable throttle bike.



 I see that the inner of the bat wing can be tilted forward to get to the clamps once the outer and headlight is out of the way. My problem is those &^$*$% douche connectors. I have never had luck unlocking them! The last bike that I ran internal wires, I just cut the wires and soldered them back because I could not get them unlocked! Seems simple..... I might give it another go but I'm glad you guys came up with an alternative that is going to an auto electric place. I'll do that if the frustration gets to high.

[Midnight Rider]

Thanks! I found a video on changing them on a cable throttle bike.



 I see that the inner of the bat wing can be tilted forward to get to the clamps once the outer and headlight is out of the way. My problem is those &^$*$% douche connectors. I have never had luck unlocking them! The last bike that I ran internal wires, I just cut the wires and soldered them back because I could not get them unlocked! Seems simple..... I might give it another go but I'm glad you guys came up with an alternative that is going to an auto electric place. I'll do that if the frustration gets to high.

Yea, they are aggravating.  If memory serves me, I used a big paper clip and/or a tiny phillips head for fixing eyeglasses.  I imagine they make some kind of tool to unlock them easier 

[xbigallenx]

Most of those connectors, you can removed the plastic insert and us a very small screw driver to push the lock out of the way. if it the bigger one that doesn't have a plastic insert they do make a tool. It's made out of thin plastic so get a couple they do break easy. If HD don't have them you can get them at a CAT dealer. They use them on all there equipment.

[brassspike]

I'm about half way through it now. The only part that is a problem is those connectors. The inventor is one sadistic ba$tard!
The one thing that I missed when reading about doing this is that the white insert is also locked inside the plug with catches on both sides. Once I figured that out, I could get them apart.
I hope to have time to get it all back together tomorrow.